tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7966785580096128012024-02-29T21:39:29.131-08:00CaffenolcolorFilm photography. Optical, mechanical, chemical and other experimentsUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger283125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-67891574068412341982019-03-18T08:33:00.000-07:002019-11-16T10:24:10.508-08:00Caffenol Black<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Caffenol Black is a minimal developer that uses only coffee as developing agent, Sodium Carbonate as accelerator and Sodium Chloride (salt) as restrainer. The recipe is as follows:</div>
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10 g soluble coffee</div>
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3 g Sodium Carbonate anhydrous or 6.6 g of heptahydrated Sodium Carbonate</div>
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2 g Sodium Chloride</div>
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Water to make 500 ml</div>
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Preparation: Dissolve by the given order in tap water (16-18ºC) and wait some minutes until all graininess is gone. Develop for 90 minutes, agitating each 15 minutes for 1 minute.</div>
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And here are some of the results you may expect:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2XmzQSgwPmcuwIWlM7ee3WiFqyiK-zLbed9ZfB8Gdzrhut451gwCfSH_SSgVe25YWimoKmA4GxU6pO44NeFELoDU_HpVGaPgRFKQHt42OZtwESS701QCfWnIgH70PgwjHRmLly8LZF-w/s1600/img699.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1032" data-original-width="1600" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2XmzQSgwPmcuwIWlM7ee3WiFqyiK-zLbed9ZfB8Gdzrhut451gwCfSH_SSgVe25YWimoKmA4GxU6pO44NeFELoDU_HpVGaPgRFKQHt42OZtwESS701QCfWnIgH70PgwjHRmLly8LZF-w/s320/img699.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0D1b4xy-lcWqq_FAKdZOkvKlX3ANRf-s3InmnA1Sd837-KnGjqzFrM6KlIih106sagpfhSIdk7ShBQB0ZsVdrFEU-9UaqKIhxA5KhTxE_7gK1Uf2VzLdPR7gjSSgF0-tstvTOV3J1bA/s1600/img702.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1036" data-original-width="1598" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0D1b4xy-lcWqq_FAKdZOkvKlX3ANRf-s3InmnA1Sd837-KnGjqzFrM6KlIih106sagpfhSIdk7ShBQB0ZsVdrFEU-9UaqKIhxA5KhTxE_7gK1Uf2VzLdPR7gjSSgF0-tstvTOV3J1bA/s320/img702.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxeEKvAJU1d5HitH2qJ_U7r_KrJYPT1xv-F6m8d01GFGb7wAsZaUVaoZ5uiKqFtO3gixVdKaRdBVs8XZagLjXqGeswZVXlnVS96t_GuJ_jaleHMmqBiv0UiqL4UrVgpRxfLfp1JJPP380/s1600/img704.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxeEKvAJU1d5HitH2qJ_U7r_KrJYPT1xv-F6m8d01GFGb7wAsZaUVaoZ5uiKqFtO3gixVdKaRdBVs8XZagLjXqGeswZVXlnVS96t_GuJ_jaleHMmqBiv0UiqL4UrVgpRxfLfp1JJPP380/s320/img704.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0ecM35GwN2QMvHoy36BKNgWBrSgvX1dHz1Rex9it6TGowe0THVZ9tg6XDpxRrlL24YvFpeN-Fe8FFBt4IQBAdBz-ZwzUrXZcQTyX0Vr4TBa2fLrpbQp-0OSYek-7Iki0En_RoNTTlho/s1600/img707.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1036" data-original-width="1599" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0ecM35GwN2QMvHoy36BKNgWBrSgvX1dHz1Rex9it6TGowe0THVZ9tg6XDpxRrlL24YvFpeN-Fe8FFBt4IQBAdBz-ZwzUrXZcQTyX0Vr4TBa2fLrpbQp-0OSYek-7Iki0En_RoNTTlho/s320/img707.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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The photos above were taken with a Olympus Trip 35 using Fomapan 100 (bulk).<div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-26678094004166062832019-01-16T07:34:00.001-08:002019-01-16T07:34:29.761-08:00Coffee as toner for salt printsJust another experiment!<br />
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I am now enthusiastic with salt prints. The look depends on the negative, exposition, paper, coating of the paper, etc..<br />
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Here is one of my latest salt print:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmTnBta3isp3Y-Tfz-OlxAgAh9L1ySpZgxTuWHLXOVIFBnWELdZAw-j-gIrINKvbRprgSRsi0yh7-_tKS8HwWMdacz0ZGENGDZHUAJp5SW0uKfHnFDinyLqYlyfEbfjeHQFBGLQ8fAzg/s1600/img692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="1600" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmTnBta3isp3Y-Tfz-OlxAgAh9L1ySpZgxTuWHLXOVIFBnWELdZAw-j-gIrINKvbRprgSRsi0yh7-_tKS8HwWMdacz0ZGENGDZHUAJp5SW0uKfHnFDinyLqYlyfEbfjeHQFBGLQ8fAzg/s320/img692.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The same print after a bath in a 10% solution of coffee, i.e. 10 g soluble coffee for 100 ml water.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjn4iYcxAl1mE7GIU1vg6cGG2s9dXpqYbeTF5VMEEFjc4n37JVrWUqR-PqctImFx7ka04wOBKKmFbnME6iX3e6h0aT97jbisMc3tiHoCYeuMYa_1kkk16eyuG_j3HfgvMTa1Abv0xj3E/s1600/img693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="1600" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjn4iYcxAl1mE7GIU1vg6cGG2s9dXpqYbeTF5VMEEFjc4n37JVrWUqR-PqctImFx7ka04wOBKKmFbnME6iX3e6h0aT97jbisMc3tiHoCYeuMYa_1kkk16eyuG_j3HfgvMTa1Abv0xj3E/s320/img693.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I tried to give the scan a very similar look to the original, but it is not 100% identical. I think the original has a better look.</div>
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This is my suggestion for your next salt print.</div>
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-29243475415259845182018-12-23T13:51:00.002-08:002018-12-23T13:51:59.727-08:00Merry Christmas<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia2bz7dc7UiGMZVMuFv6N2YbEpAoSowgXlc_Y02ApMagCl2lTZyQPnwScLcy0zncyg6lk-DxW_rik9e3Nb0hEq1oj4hnMKiQGA7wU3J3ks8ojrsQskvfvVuq3f-3UJv9MykbaVCt5sFmA/s1600/img559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1028" data-original-width="1600" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia2bz7dc7UiGMZVMuFv6N2YbEpAoSowgXlc_Y02ApMagCl2lTZyQPnwScLcy0zncyg6lk-DxW_rik9e3Nb0hEq1oj4hnMKiQGA7wU3J3ks8ojrsQskvfvVuq3f-3UJv9MykbaVCt5sFmA/s320/img559.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fomapan 100 developed with Caffenol-Black</td></tr>
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-8264996943447842922018-11-21T06:19:00.001-08:002018-11-21T06:19:26.423-08:00True sepia, make it simple<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0EI186u-awTho3cqV_RfynFcSAzUOJJ8QKmouAFBoGpsZwnxxAMtN9JP-0wzlj9nlJ0Zd_K2e4jtI-ELoOzl3jvT7vgp2zr3NO_NqhPX_unuMso456CZpaueNkqeetRwynKVizUD9hU/s1600/PB190096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0EI186u-awTho3cqV_RfynFcSAzUOJJ8QKmouAFBoGpsZwnxxAMtN9JP-0wzlj9nlJ0Zd_K2e4jtI-ELoOzl3jvT7vgp2zr3NO_NqhPX_unuMso456CZpaueNkqeetRwynKVizUD9hU/s320/PB190096.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The photo above was a normal B&W photo, a little too dark. So, I wondered what could it turn in sepia. To do so, I used a bleach bath made of copper sulfate and sodium chloride for a few minutes, enough to vanish the image. I washed tho photo to remove vestiges of the bleach and soak it in a solution of Sodium Sulfide. The image reappeared but now in sepia.<br />
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Bleach:<br />
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100 g Copper Sulfate<br />
100 g Sodium Chloride<br />
1 liter water<br />
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Sepia bath:<br />
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10 g Sodium Sulfide<br />
1 liter water<div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-42128812285058554092018-11-13T05:50:00.001-08:002018-11-13T05:52:55.369-08:00Salt print<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wC8WjBRXMXO5Pmyp0ujF20luYwNiVlISy8sSX4kPwlPzfiTsmAqAtV5S2rcmj3KVpnY3NlVDtEEB-m9xbuj2AqP39UGtHeBOJvLt1L8EazTkfdfFS8uvTwQOrkpg1gQ1K7Y3rndAcVI/s1600/img609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1178" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wC8WjBRXMXO5Pmyp0ujF20luYwNiVlISy8sSX4kPwlPzfiTsmAqAtV5S2rcmj3KVpnY3NlVDtEEB-m9xbuj2AqP39UGtHeBOJvLt1L8EazTkfdfFS8uvTwQOrkpg1gQ1K7Y3rndAcVI/s320/img609.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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Bridge over Lis, Leiria, Portugal</td></tr>
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Salt print is one of the easiest (and earliest) print processes from a transparent negative. But there are a number of slight different recipes and some toning methods.<br />
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I did the simplest recipe I could find to produce the A4 picture above:<br />
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First I printed the negative on a A4 acetate transparency. Then I prepared the paper using a sheet of A4 Canson paper of 300g/m2. The paper was first floated on a 2% salt solution (20g of salt for 1 liter water) and put the paper to dry. After this, under a red light I painted the paper with a 12% solution of silver nitrate (12g of silver nitrate for 100 mililiter) using a smooth brush and let the paper dry.<br />
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Using a photo frame I putted the transparency and paper in contact, with the transparency over the paper when the glass is looking up.<br />
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Following this preparation, I exposed the sandwich to bright sun for some minutes, until the sensitized paper looked brown enough.<br />
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Finally the paper was taken of the frame and subject to a water shower until the water came clear out.<br />
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Then I brought the paper to a tray containing a 10% solution of Sodium Thiosulfate (100g for 1 liter). This step took 20 minutes, The paper was left in water for 1 hour and put to dry.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-25326686758940292122018-06-07T07:51:00.003-07:002018-06-07T07:51:44.960-07:00Wannabe Photographer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/invited/7638712/fe6965e98db5fab913702c892675a43b4ef62e9a" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="707" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVg6UqrOFTmUMM1G_WnTyfLrZD58UODgV8mp06mYCDSiY6WaNM0yXPSy0ya02IbG2J1hE6VZ2bL0_Ry6gg-T8V2nTJ9nRe7caxQ9D5XzqE1KLY0fyAGGyrVzLyDieCa0g-OlXe56KWYL0/s320/cover_2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-40733243309265615502018-05-21T05:51:00.001-07:002018-05-21T06:25:32.984-07:00Thank you for waitingSince quite a long time, I found no time to go on with my experiments on color photography. But I have been busy taken pictures and developing and scanning and publishing at <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/hjtsousa/" target="_blank">Flickr</a>.<br />
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After trying <a href="http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#2-bath_C-41" target="_blank">Dignan 2-bath method</a> for more than one year, tweaking here and there, developing at room temperature, I may now say that it is a very good idea but it also has disadvantages. The bath A doesn't last that long as the author desired and you have to live with some color shift to green in negatives, magenta in positive.<br />
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Last October I came to <a href="https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/cd4-color-film-developer.38832/" target="_blank">another approach by Bill Williams</a>, that I tried to simplify creating a 2-solutions color developer, like used in commercial color kits. But I was not so sure whether this would not conduct me at the end to a standard color developer, like many other fans of color film photography do.<br />
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So, I prepared 500 ml of a standard color developer that I am using since more than a month (six rolls and still going). I am using the developer with a start temperature of 42ºC (I don't have a JOBO device) and until now the results are very good for me. The <a href="http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8224.0" target="_blank">recipe may be found here</a>, for instance.<br />
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Some results of using the standard color developer:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0JP7djSPPstQ7u9E92cLwpJMby_8WmWn81_03nmoqyT9gfYFLvWatgu9duBphJYzgmFtKyX4El9fE4uoI9uG5UEFlvxaPqvauAaqtpQQ3pEuIsWVdBfE-uuv2XZf3gNZQBlRGFeAwMNM/s1600/img209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1007" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0JP7djSPPstQ7u9E92cLwpJMby_8WmWn81_03nmoqyT9gfYFLvWatgu9duBphJYzgmFtKyX4El9fE4uoI9uG5UEFlvxaPqvauAaqtpQQ3pEuIsWVdBfE-uuv2XZf3gNZQBlRGFeAwMNM/s400/img209.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk60KjcrN1-og_yBznFYXnhYwTRWFIDytS485DdhiOOpTckD8ZRLx5mNO2QzukpvpNJHS8U2Kw8JmXVD7BEDGvx_gqpDA8Lxix0nA9TDNfQXG4pBB2yFn2CVfLUYy1vrOKRHfv21jYmNc/s1600/img211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1007" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk60KjcrN1-og_yBznFYXnhYwTRWFIDytS485DdhiOOpTckD8ZRLx5mNO2QzukpvpNJHS8U2Kw8JmXVD7BEDGvx_gqpDA8Lxix0nA9TDNfQXG4pBB2yFn2CVfLUYy1vrOKRHfv21jYmNc/s400/img211.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dnQU4UtnlQb7uXCp8rfPOY7cRYArMb-6qzKEc_3EWh8u8G0GlwBQHdF8FJnX3nKudA6iMmbnEt-bVSubpmXrcdyXg0i0wCFwz81ThJCkU9E66YjbtfVGAySxsDJZm7sswlIz0ViJ944/s1600/img213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1004" data-original-width="1600" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dnQU4UtnlQb7uXCp8rfPOY7cRYArMb-6qzKEc_3EWh8u8G0GlwBQHdF8FJnX3nKudA6iMmbnEt-bVSubpmXrcdyXg0i0wCFwz81ThJCkU9E66YjbtfVGAySxsDJZm7sswlIz0ViJ944/s400/img213.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmHybcghAsmzetiQmx1dGAIrzNYXnuXM0yoYcuOpdPj8tDTNN4LPxSUo24iWQJLArP-cit25ZgTrqjrZiT5U-S-C4ClFHa3yiTu4cuDcLNsYoicj6TNw0y6GlScfZgBxG_q4LbpZlZm4/s1600/img214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="997" data-original-width="1600" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmHybcghAsmzetiQmx1dGAIrzNYXnuXM0yoYcuOpdPj8tDTNN4LPxSUo24iWQJLArP-cit25ZgTrqjrZiT5U-S-C4ClFHa3yiTu4cuDcLNsYoicj6TNw0y6GlScfZgBxG_q4LbpZlZm4/s400/img214.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdVoTzVnekzrjfqAuSpNsKznUtKqtMEiFO4wJVLN29msHY4fOqHZaE-lawuFtq89x9xKoXvGj4At6BCWq-hPmcSSxylqyHuIIsi8FobEHTD77yv5xxQGsHwLbUNTeS_aeUL4sJfg-M-I/s1600/img222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1004" data-original-width="1600" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdVoTzVnekzrjfqAuSpNsKznUtKqtMEiFO4wJVLN29msHY4fOqHZaE-lawuFtq89x9xKoXvGj4At6BCWq-hPmcSSxylqyHuIIsi8FobEHTD77yv5xxQGsHwLbUNTeS_aeUL4sJfg-M-I/s400/img222.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-18120947963050343432017-11-02T01:26:00.000-07:002017-11-02T01:31:34.705-07:00Turning it easierIn the last post, I spoke about Bill Williams color developer, <a href="https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/cd4-color-film-developer.38832/" target="_blank">as he proposed it</a>.<br />
<br />
To mix all components, one by one, each time you want to develop a film, is not that practical. Besides, with those 10% or 1% solutions you have to measure different amounts of each. I thought it would be easier to have only two prepared stock solutions and use equal amounts of them, just like a commercial developer.<br />
<br />
So, here is my proposal for an easier usage of Bill Williams developer:<br />
<br />
<b>Stock solution A, for 500 ml</b><br />
<br />
25g Sodium Sulfite<br />
20g CD4 *<br />
<br />
<b>Stock solution B, for 500 ml</b><br />
<br />
12,5g Potassium Bromide<br />
0,1g Potassium Iodide<br />
200g Potassium Carbonate<br />
<br />
* The resulting amount in the work solution is slightly higher, 0,4g against 0,35g<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Usage:</b><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Put 10ml of each solutions A and B in 500ml hot water from tap (+/- 50ºC), mix and let it cool to 45ºC (112ºF). Pour the solution into the tank, where the film was previously loaded. Gently and constant agitation during 8 minutes. Then rinse, followed by bleach, rinse, fix and wash, as usual.</div>
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-57675119975825745512017-10-28T05:08:00.002-07:002017-10-28T11:16:42.524-07:00Bill Williams CD4 Color Film Developer<a href="https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/cd4-color-film-developer.38832/" target="_blank">Published in May 21, 2008 by Bill Williams at APUG</a>, here is his recipe:<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #2c2d2d; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">«Water 500ml @ approx 112 degrees</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #2c2d2d; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Sodium Sulfite (A) .5 grams (approx 1/8 tsp)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #2c2d2d; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">CD4 .35 grams (approx 1/8 tsp)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #2c2d2d; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Potassium Iodide 1.8 milligrams</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #2c2d2d; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Potassium Bromide .25 grams</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #2c2d2d; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Potassium Carbonate (A) 4 grams (approx 2/3 tsp)»</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fafafa; color: #2c2d2d; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
The recipe is very minimal and precise about the amounts in grams and apparently not accurate with fractions of tsp. But reading above the recipe, one can understand what he means. He used graduated inox recipients to measure exact solutions of Potassium Carbonate, Sodium Sulfite and Potassium Bromide. I only don't understand how he measured Potassium Iodide from a 1% solution.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I prepared following separate 500 ml each solutions:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>50 grams CD4 and 1,5 grams Sulfite as preservative only</li>
<li>50 grams Sodium Sulfite</li>
<li>50 grams Potassium Bromide</li>
<li>50 grams Potassium Carbonate</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
I already had a 2% solution of Potassium Iodide. So I took 5 ml (that contains 100 mg) and add water to make 100 ml, so I ended with a 0,1% solution. To use 1.8 mg, I need 1,8 ml of this solution.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
With a 5 ml syringe, I measure following amounts to prepare 500 ml of this developer:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>5 ml Sulfite 10% solution</li>
<li>3.5 ml CD4 10% solution</li>
<li>1.8 ml of Iodide 0,1% solution</li>
<li>2,5 ml Bromide 10% solution</li>
<li>40 ml Carbonate 10% solution</li>
</ul>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qJXWyw7B1J7Nv-p61HEkbGvXR-lPQ5al9v69YgvOPHR8_7NA7-W6wR0308YEzZyYiYiXRyntW393V-BmQODzEc03ynHhMS01vq9xYsCeEt2Lq-A8mXgBFRbdFlwGnrrxKDrgX7sXjoM/s1600/img659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="993" data-original-width="1600" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qJXWyw7B1J7Nv-p61HEkbGvXR-lPQ5al9v69YgvOPHR8_7NA7-W6wR0308YEzZyYiYiXRyntW393V-BmQODzEc03ynHhMS01vq9xYsCeEt2Lq-A8mXgBFRbdFlwGnrrxKDrgX7sXjoM/s320/img659.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the last results</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-54375123591099677132017-10-22T05:53:00.001-07:002017-10-22T05:53:50.561-07:00One shot C-41. Is it a good idea?I have been using <a href="http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#2-bath_C-41">Dignan NFC-41 developer</a> for quite a long time, but there are some negative points that I couldn't resolve until yet: the first bath doesn't last that long, after the tenth development in a weekly basis, you already see thin negatives; the color shift to green in negative (magenta in positive) is possible to fix but somehow annoying. <a href="https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/current-options-for-diy-c-41-chemistry.122777/#post-1624892">Another opinion</a> that may be right is that modern films have thin layers and cannot hold enough CD4 to the second bath. I have tried to extend the times for both A e B baths or to put a few ml of bath A in bath B.<br />
<br />
The great expected advantages of Dignan method for amateurs are: no need of temperature and cost reduction by using only small amount of CD4 each time. The first advantage, if you want to get better colors, will disappear because maybe you need to use temperature. The second advantage did not prove because the first bath goes bad within some time. Unless you develop every day, you will not save much money with the developer.<br />
<br />
I already though about just using a mixed developer (A+B) in a one shot developer using temperature. But the problem of the shelf life of bath A would still exist.<br />
<br />
Further searchs at internet, lead me to this very clever <a href="https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/cd4-color-film-developer.38832/">suggestion of Bill Williams at APUG</a>.<br />
<br />
I already have results of using it. Unfortunately, I made a small mistake, using more carbonate than proposed. Nevertheless, the pictures showed great potential. Maybe next time will be even better.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy-Y8hDhhkDMj8Sn0FQfp2MCIFRr6QGDhGtT66jnJ2i9twGzer0fNmkNm8x3FXBvINALmFtsAHTLQ0iA3xgOZ9NVvKD9T8KzGGp3K81AuK1TbxgwakiGV5fzpEWK3xqp8koa-HO3d3bD8/s1600/img599.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1004" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy-Y8hDhhkDMj8Sn0FQfp2MCIFRr6QGDhGtT66jnJ2i9twGzer0fNmkNm8x3FXBvINALmFtsAHTLQ0iA3xgOZ9NVvKD9T8KzGGp3K81AuK1TbxgwakiGV5fzpEWK3xqp8koa-HO3d3bD8/s320/img599.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkhQkJYNbx0ozLPIFQdQrYFyfNxvNjZnLbBMqW1F5DbvUMouwa_m-omVyMaioVFV2EnbpaAi50BOfJJpjX97w8umKs7CfCYX6UAEgxZ2qCcxz5i_q8zUb8EIiCuBw90TlhwG-FGEZzTNw/s1600/img600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1004" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkhQkJYNbx0ozLPIFQdQrYFyfNxvNjZnLbBMqW1F5DbvUMouwa_m-omVyMaioVFV2EnbpaAi50BOfJJpjX97w8umKs7CfCYX6UAEgxZ2qCcxz5i_q8zUb8EIiCuBw90TlhwG-FGEZzTNw/s320/img600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkOnR-3jVienTr8y7q1asIB6IQIKyir3FnB4e-1EF3KbTohIpdR_nTnnDy1oDRccQNO85_rygi3KG5_nGVTAXE-fcgZkBO2pDp9UH8nygMX5D0AHDfbx63L7fg6wc_47DLay61aSIzxSc/s1600/img601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="999" data-original-width="1600" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkOnR-3jVienTr8y7q1asIB6IQIKyir3FnB4e-1EF3KbTohIpdR_nTnnDy1oDRccQNO85_rygi3KG5_nGVTAXE-fcgZkBO2pDp9UH8nygMX5D0AHDfbx63L7fg6wc_47DLay61aSIzxSc/s320/img601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It is very easy to make a pinhole camera. But if we want to make a film camera with scars means, the more complicated part is, obviously, the shutter. I already made some rudimentary shutters using rubbers, wood and aluminum plates, without a concrete project. There are several types of shutters, see <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_(photography)">here</a>. First of all I wanted to make a simple one, and this time I decided to plan it more in detail.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCDfS49m0SiO8vNRkIZquPXhlBAoH_eN3V63WYrLW_01u7oXsktTxiURuix16pCWKH6ggaj73UwrNrM0iiZ1KPKRPYK6nmz7DJahck4bGzPtkA7TpoJB_8wj4341O37lIx2hw3BTa54C8/s1600/DSC00244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1108" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCDfS49m0SiO8vNRkIZquPXhlBAoH_eN3V63WYrLW_01u7oXsktTxiURuix16pCWKH6ggaj73UwrNrM0iiZ1KPKRPYK6nmz7DJahck4bGzPtkA7TpoJB_8wj4341O37lIx2hw3BTa54C8/s320/DSC00244.JPG" width="221" /></a></div>
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It is a single leaf shutter with 3 mouvable partes. The leaf, the catch mecanism that keeps the leaf covering the hole and the trigger that will push the leaf when it is released by the catch.</div>
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It uses two springs that I took from used ballpoint pens. Afer finishing the project I realized that another piece was needed to keep the leaf close to the square wooden base, whose dimensions are 5,7 x 5,7 cm. Also the hole resulted a little too large, due to the file I used to enlarge it, after drilling a a smaller hole with a home driller.</div>
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The next time, I will know more about these problems and maybe it will work better.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyedK5UN46LzQT1_kbflrtBHSwTtxPv9aJqZbh_sYAv_5wd8NXqT1lhhji-0YenDI5L-tDY2zjJJgXS8TCmMQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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A 300g/l solution of salt will fix normal B&W films in about 24 hours.<br />
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After that date, I started a series of tests in order to make the salt fixer faster.<br />
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I came to the conclusion that adding 2ml/liter of a 5% solution of household ammonia to the salt fixer, the time is reduced to as few as 2 hours. In this recipe I also included 2g/l of Potassium Bromide which also contributes to the speeding of the salt fixer. But it may be left away, if time may be longer than 2 hours, let us say 4 hours. Also Potassium Bromide is not a household stuff and this is actually the aim of the thing, no need of expensive products and hard to get!<br />
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It is already 5 years ago that I published the 'finding' and slowly this is spreading away.<br />
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Early recognized by the <a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.pt/2012/04/fixer-2-errare-humanum-est.html" target="_blank">Caffenol Master Reinhold</a>, that promoted some discussions about it in forums, I am glad to see that my modest contribute to homemade film development is beeing announced here and there. I found it today at the fine blog of <a href="https://profauprh.wordpress.com/experimentando-con-caffenol/">Profesora G. J. Yukavetsky</a>.<br />
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My compliments and special thanks!<br />
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<b>Bath A</b><br />
<br />
500 ml water<br />
9 g Sodium Sulfite<br />
1 g Potassium Metabisulfite<br />
11 g CD4<br />
Water to make 1 liter<br />
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pH should be acid<br />
Time duration: 10 minutes (or more)<br />
Note: Keep bath A in a dark bottle to prevent oxidation and reusage<br />
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<b>Bath B</b><br />
<br />
500 ml water<br />
25 g Potassium Carbonate<br />
0,6g Potassium Bromide<br />
Water to make 1 liter.<br />
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pH is aimed to be about 11.<br />
Time duration: 10 minutes or longer with constant (non stop) agitation for less grain.<br />
Bath B may be one shot or reusable. No rinse or wash between bath A and B.<br />
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After bath B, a stop bath with 40ml of Vinegar per liter water is good to prevent basic contamination of the bleach bath and fixer.<br />
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And now, which bleach bath is suitable? Ferric(III)-Ammonium EDTA based bleach is good and Ammonium Thiosulfate as fixer is also a good option. But there are some more alternatives like Ferricyanide and Copper Sulfate & Salt for the bleach and Sodium Thiosulfate (Hypo) for fixer.<br />
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What only few people know is that Povidone-Iodine (sold under the brand Betadine) may also be used as bleach. Using a 10% solution of Povidone-Iodine, it takes about one hour to act. Like other bleach baths, it also needs aeration to work better.<br />
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Some examples of photos developed with the modified Dignan 2-bath as above, bleached with Betadine and fixed with Sodium Thiosulfate based fixer. The fixer also needs much more time to act, also one hour.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtM21t201vJ8tekZqevhZ4Fkx7Uire8fhDyMNR4WAGKzEsMKktFqWToOI2udkBJbpLKJgXYwhvGDKuM7rZ3UXmdt-myOlXqZ1Zf8cOXrplQla78GkXcCR8GXquU2dQze7Hj2Nmf5QuSq0/s1600/img202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtM21t201vJ8tekZqevhZ4Fkx7Uire8fhDyMNR4WAGKzEsMKktFqWToOI2udkBJbpLKJgXYwhvGDKuM7rZ3UXmdt-myOlXqZ1Zf8cOXrplQla78GkXcCR8GXquU2dQze7Hj2Nmf5QuSq0/s400/img202.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBn1QSuvEAnpTh5_H-VzEeyiSylE6zpSo6LdoShjN-sEwywlg6v0nqB8F2V48Td8ZnKtHE80t7xeCn-ZQK6kh05dvL_iDwqfcGujVTWyZUNPqS1kKO1nYzqVp7tGAsNr-r9Hce_mNUqIM/s1600/img206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBn1QSuvEAnpTh5_H-VzEeyiSylE6zpSo6LdoShjN-sEwywlg6v0nqB8F2V48Td8ZnKtHE80t7xeCn-ZQK6kh05dvL_iDwqfcGujVTWyZUNPqS1kKO1nYzqVp7tGAsNr-r9Hce_mNUqIM/s400/img206.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcZ3B_78C79tWv9RctVXh1dsHniyppiXuqGM8tLAp5H37FhdhBSBpcOpT2bJeqmQ0GsPX_Np03KcwiX6-7MGMgVlRJM-4CbX5qZMi0Pg3C503_znm6Tp6JUJ1x4LdetOQClzmIlkrXv8/s1600/img246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1040" data-original-width="1500" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcZ3B_78C79tWv9RctVXh1dsHniyppiXuqGM8tLAp5H37FhdhBSBpcOpT2bJeqmQ0GsPX_Np03KcwiX6-7MGMgVlRJM-4CbX5qZMi0Pg3C503_znm6Tp6JUJ1x4LdetOQClzmIlkrXv8/s400/img246.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Conclusion: Betadine (Povidone-Iodine) works very well (IR scanning didn't show any remaining silver) and Sodium Thiosulfate works well too, both need much more time than regular accepted bleach and fix baths.<br />
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Taking this <a href="http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#Parodinal" target="_blank">formula</a> as starting point, let us translate it to 500 ml, doubling the contents:<br />
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30 g Paracetamol<br />
100 g Sodium Sulfite<br />
40 g Sodium Hydroxide<br />
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I had many difficulties to get Sodium Sulfite at local suppliers. So, I started thinking about alternatives using Potassium Metabisulfite instead. Using a chemical balance calculator like <a href="http://www.webqc.org/balance.php" target="_blank">this one</a>, I realized that following equation is valid:<br />
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K2S2O5+NaOH = SO3K2 + SO3Na2+H2O<br />
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The first term is Potassium Metabisulfite and Sodium Hydroxide and the second is Sodium and Potassium Sulfite and some water.<br />
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From 80 g Potassium Metabisulfite and about 30 g Sodium Hydroxide, one gets about 100 g Sulfites that may replace the 100 g Sodium Sulfite given in the formula above. This leads to following new recipe:<br />
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30 g Paracetamol<br />
80 g Potassium Metabisulfite<br />
70 g (40+30) Sodium Hydroxide<br />
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It works very like Rodinal, same times and dilutions.<br />
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Following photos were made with an Agfa Clack camera, using Ilford Delta 100, developed with this last recipe in dilution 1:100 for 60 minutes in stand development:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7KWCkf65ubwgz5qV3rlZFcQLRCl2EkksaanVOAK4ppfichM6G5oP4hBnfvwa60bJugwevzavUTXlBGdkCftIE7LogigkTDjkBRHxFQIvZ-0gxI5mBbXPP4jfySSTY2vs07JGVq6t1ttE/s1600/img156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1030" data-original-width="1600" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7KWCkf65ubwgz5qV3rlZFcQLRCl2EkksaanVOAK4ppfichM6G5oP4hBnfvwa60bJugwevzavUTXlBGdkCftIE7LogigkTDjkBRHxFQIvZ-0gxI5mBbXPP4jfySSTY2vs07JGVq6t1ttE/s400/img156.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4D8ALrhIHJczr50Wol5VB5G-499PCFP-oWEz1NVqFXopAcs71gpDJs1fBBuiEz0fZDX64h9ugl3bpDjwYh07IIAUsFHH1oaabtiperU_qcwBo8jtZ2gTz98G1mpgvebdKDckNpxU3J8/s1600/img158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1041" data-original-width="1600" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4D8ALrhIHJczr50Wol5VB5G-499PCFP-oWEz1NVqFXopAcs71gpDJs1fBBuiEz0fZDX64h9ugl3bpDjwYh07IIAUsFHH1oaabtiperU_qcwBo8jtZ2gTz98G1mpgvebdKDckNpxU3J8/s400/img158.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNwyuz4tFEPOmDffknljDYGZWMgRuNJf7hPbRBz76KekCrnBEVqkZi2MIQQwlBsKKE-WYm_Wm6-0a6cwEWdmiXH10WY7fGK2W5clg6o3RjvUjhBMnU94dGqzARrBaAKPLoVW1b0OXdyU/s1600/img160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1039" data-original-width="1600" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNwyuz4tFEPOmDffknljDYGZWMgRuNJf7hPbRBz76KekCrnBEVqkZi2MIQQwlBsKKE-WYm_Wm6-0a6cwEWdmiXH10WY7fGK2W5clg6o3RjvUjhBMnU94dGqzARrBaAKPLoVW1b0OXdyU/s400/img160.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">800 ml water</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">3 g Potassium Metabisulfite</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">6 g CD4 (color developer for C-41)</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">30 g Soluble coffee</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">35 g Potassium Carbonate</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">1,5 g Potassium Bromide</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Water to make 1 Liter</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">I developed for 12 minutes with constant agitation at room temperature, bleached and fixed. Perhaps I could have done 15 minutes too, the results would not be so different, I think.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Because coffee is acidic I raised slightly the Potassium Carbonate content and I got evidently better negatives and the difference can be appreciated by sight.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;">One of the 8 photos made with an Agfa Clack and expired Fujicolor Superia 100:</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-4TXl4sn4C5lFmRr2wlwtZD4Ym-nKrkKwIQW3TTVnbfQoNgxo8K8L8tN2D10dxQ9NQGcMrN3F6bE7s-6atQxj9B90KmaQ3j0g2VHTPEt5H0sW_mu6qjZsayTNgyrPpdjVt-iIOA0MW5g/s1600/img132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1046" data-original-width="1600" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-4TXl4sn4C5lFmRr2wlwtZD4Ym-nKrkKwIQW3TTVnbfQoNgxo8K8L8tN2D10dxQ9NQGcMrN3F6bE7s-6atQxj9B90KmaQ3j0g2VHTPEt5H0sW_mu6qjZsayTNgyrPpdjVt-iIOA0MW5g/s400/img132.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-56105129451718297912017-05-30T10:10:00.001-07:002017-05-30T10:50:57.089-07:00After one year...One year ago I had to stop my experiments. I am restarting, and I have new results about developing color with coffee... and CD4!<br />
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I had, after many not convincing results, established a formula for my universal developer with wich I got some good pictures, color and B&W:<br />
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800 ml water<br />
3 g Potassium Metabisulfite<br />
6 g CD4 (color developer for C-41)<br />
20 g Soluble coffee<br />
30 g Potassium Carbonate<br />
1,5 g Potassium Bromide<br />
Water to make 1 Liter<br />
<br />
Develop for 15 minutes for both C-41 and B&W at room temperature with constante agitation.<br />
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I never had a confirmation off the need of coffee in this recipe. So, I tried to reduce the content of coffee and increase the content of the color developer CD4. But the results showed, clearly, that the coffee content is important. Some people argued with me that beeing coffee a B&W developer, it would compete with CD4, stilling silver that would contribute to more color when developed by CD4.<br />
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But the theory was not confirmed by the praxis. Here is a photo developed with the recipe above:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIGQjO875XsAIeaCo5yrQr_K9FsrnaFmPcrMLkrpfYxNlVfAC6ze2XkfTq5Qyc6DfpkYLzzpzf1xGG4evZDHMpzAMp53_Uk0yHLwey_g-xk3y3Xc8fQKjUs8mDTotE6q_RtTgGv_DjSCI/s1600/img078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1026" data-original-width="1600" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIGQjO875XsAIeaCo5yrQr_K9FsrnaFmPcrMLkrpfYxNlVfAC6ze2XkfTq5Qyc6DfpkYLzzpzf1xGG4evZDHMpzAMp53_Uk0yHLwey_g-xk3y3Xc8fQKjUs8mDTotE6q_RtTgGv_DjSCI/s400/img078.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo developed with Caffenolcolor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And here is a photo developed with 10g/liter of CD4 and only 10g/liter of coffee:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoT9VNNAyRteBBwRjBclV72wPKoVi2HJKODxwWg3Pai4vw0P8ISIlDLtCKdhkhqXSu_hHNJZdsv8dXr6LUE8FKU6y77rESNNK1ZAcJVQ-mwKD79-QIj5gFdtzzo0J2jTtEbZhvgyclXyA/s1600/img098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1040" data-original-width="1600" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoT9VNNAyRteBBwRjBclV72wPKoVi2HJKODxwWg3Pai4vw0P8ISIlDLtCKdhkhqXSu_hHNJZdsv8dXr6LUE8FKU6y77rESNNK1ZAcJVQ-mwKD79-QIj5gFdtzzo0J2jTtEbZhvgyclXyA/s400/img098.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Less coffee and more CD4</td></tr>
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It is obvious that the first photo is more color saturated than the second, and perahps the coffee content should be even increased...<br />
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Have a nice time with coffee!<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-21429258535561572472016-05-29T12:44:00.000-07:002016-05-29T12:44:28.823-07:00Another approach to Dignan's 2-bath developer for C-41What seduced me with Dignan's divided developer was the absence of time and temperature control when doing C-41 at home, without expensive equipment.<br />
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I am using the method for quite a while now, but I still have some in-satisfaction about colour shifts, grain, shelf life, etc..<br />
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I already tried to solve colour shifts using different recipes for bath B, decreasing or increasing pH. The grain has been always there, no matter how I agitate or not. Shelf life was 1 month for bath A and pictures were becaming weaker and weaker.<br />
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Let me remind you of the composition of bath A:<br />
<br />
1 g of Sodium Bisulfite <br />
9 g of Sodium Sulfite<br />
11 g CD4<br />
Water to - 1 liter<br />
<br />
I couldn't get Sodium Bisulfite, but I read somewhere that Metabisulfite in 1:1 proportion would do the same. So I used 1g/l of Potassium Metabisulfite.<br />
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I tried to use more Potassium Metabisulfite, 2g/l, to prolong the shelf live and indeed, it worked. I could use the same batch of bath A during 6 months with little changes that I compensated with longer bath B until 1 hour.<br />
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The use of more Potassium Metabisulfite seems to require longer bath B anyway.<br />
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The last insight I had about the divided C-41 developer was this one: Why not helping the second bath with a little of bath A in it? This could have as result a better overall development and, who knows, better negatives?<br />
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In fact, I started using 20ml/l of bath A in bath B and then increasing to 50ml/l. Yes, better colours and better density of the negatives. And with constant agitation I had much less grain than before.<br />
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But, and this could cut to zero the advantages of Dignan 2-bath developer, if we need 50 ml of bath A for each film, after 20 films we spent 1000 ml that would also have developed 20 films without split development.<br />
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But no, bath B with 50ml/l of bath A may develop 2, 3 or more films, so making the process very attractive.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-48872932297832301622016-05-23T01:24:00.001-07:002016-05-23T01:24:59.723-07:00New findings on C-41I have been using split development for color films with some success but sometimes it fails too. I like very much the idea that we just use a small amount of CD4 in the first bath and get more films developed than one could achieve with a one-bath developer.<br />
<br />
Some causes of failure are:<br />
<ul>
<li>The first bath looses strength and leads to underdevelopment</li>
<li>Different films need different second baths, different pH<br /> (Fuji tends for instance to give greenish negatives)</li>
<li>Grainy pictures (also because agitation is manual and sometimes we don't agitate enough)</li>
</ul>
I am working in an alternative but I still have to test it with at least 2 other films, Kodacolor and Fujicolor normally available today.<br />
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By now, I am getting good results with Fujicolor-Eterna-250D, besides a very tolerant film that can even be developed with hair dye as I already showed here while other films give very bad results.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_D7Lk-BCkjMaUz-0GSd69dbzrsbsEQ1SEOWyGizhfpRMW63QvR8jLt84ap9sbJ7d93OpjUygVdrjbgo0Fv5OD5J1yJGhw4ehm7s8onLFrtQVM3Y_SQsntLi866iF_3vMiilqpLY0bBrg/s1600/imagen726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_D7Lk-BCkjMaUz-0GSd69dbzrsbsEQ1SEOWyGizhfpRMW63QvR8jLt84ap9sbJ7d93OpjUygVdrjbgo0Fv5OD5J1yJGhw4ehm7s8onLFrtQVM3Y_SQsntLi866iF_3vMiilqpLY0bBrg/s400/imagen726.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaANiRKvkPUGUP1t3HSfyEyow-VsfHBxDHMUznmTKbOtUAzHqZBcyulyrmowwKtjH3MvDzjnfftGx1xR0NtoVnI88J9GvuSoSbfCsj4TwlYu2OLIj1-BybGiH73AOwNjyYbT0GHTqbC6E/s1600/imagen728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaANiRKvkPUGUP1t3HSfyEyow-VsfHBxDHMUznmTKbOtUAzHqZBcyulyrmowwKtjH3MvDzjnfftGx1xR0NtoVnI88J9GvuSoSbfCsj4TwlYu2OLIj1-BybGiH73AOwNjyYbT0GHTqbC6E/s400/imagen728.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGcoS4uxH8bFu6eQ1jPNuKEQ0MyI7WdAyzAixfyyKkRT7lmHEP7I-gY_glkG9edLTXNp2e8v5JLBkpovcEaYk4AS9tGWT2tYrDKrPuWqbyDIVFhZwTYDsCRTJEsrkU7WmcoLeYNR0dZw/s1600/imagen732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGcoS4uxH8bFu6eQ1jPNuKEQ0MyI7WdAyzAixfyyKkRT7lmHEP7I-gY_glkG9edLTXNp2e8v5JLBkpovcEaYk4AS9tGWT2tYrDKrPuWqbyDIVFhZwTYDsCRTJEsrkU7WmcoLeYNR0dZw/s400/imagen732.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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These pictures have a very good color in just automatic scanner settings and a fine grain.<br />
So, as soon as I have more confidence with the alternative to the split developer, I will make a new post. By now, pacience is needed, but the idea is to include in the second bath a certain amount of the first.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-89870308883130426392016-04-24T01:53:00.000-07:002016-04-24T03:27:12.910-07:00Worldwide Pinhole Photography DayFor a long time I didn't post because I had no time for further experiments but soon I will return with more funny things, I hope!<br />
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Today is the <a href="http://pinholeday.org/" target="_blank">Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day</a>, so I want to show you an interesting experiment I made. Normally in a pinhole film photograph you will almost never see moving objects. To get a sharp photo you have to use a small hole but a small hole means less light and for the most films you need to expose for seconds. And every movement will produce blurred images or only fogged areas or nothing if the object moves very fast.<br />
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One could think how to overcome this problem by using very fast films and pushing the development. This is what I made using an old Agfa Synchro Box without lens. In its place I putted a pinhole of 0.5mm, giving a f number of more than 270. The camera has a speed of about 1:50 in instant setting. I used a 3200 ISO film to take some instant pinhole photos and developed in parodinal developer in dilution 1:50 for one hour, stand. Yes, there appeared some images. The film was very dark (fogged by a so long development) but all 8 pictures, taken in a sunny day with some clouds could be scanned and gave usable photos.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijHcswmahcafceBtXZ2tsQf4oVQg6ghFQlj7ivPluJ5NAKLRpU6RXXo0ZCXB-ehyphenhyphenQZ2MetDArc1T3wKww6o9a5etBMbMPw6bOiHXKaMxhMpQQLfsGoIEuhpYeVbllCNH5fNl-uuRyDBlA/s1600/imagen590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijHcswmahcafceBtXZ2tsQf4oVQg6ghFQlj7ivPluJ5NAKLRpU6RXXo0ZCXB-ehyphenhyphenQZ2MetDArc1T3wKww6o9a5etBMbMPw6bOiHXKaMxhMpQQLfsGoIEuhpYeVbllCNH5fNl-uuRyDBlA/s320/imagen590.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAy0FNZ4ExTgGosAT5qz0xJYSOmOg5-rLtKZ5g2797Emb-ZHml4JxGkFc3U2xz5WdGBTlUCLxcdHweLAsfgq5EW2dldk6svy-QZzTEE8dBSIc_CJXhxCLPSInG7SChz5FwmNO2uiSrH3E/s1600/imagen591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAy0FNZ4ExTgGosAT5qz0xJYSOmOg5-rLtKZ5g2797Emb-ZHml4JxGkFc3U2xz5WdGBTlUCLxcdHweLAsfgq5EW2dldk6svy-QZzTEE8dBSIc_CJXhxCLPSInG7SChz5FwmNO2uiSrH3E/s320/imagen591.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy89Gtgq4aH9xDGNcA3vXhPqqeA8wdiyHfIab3aJJ4xqe6dVI_VXsLtue-AXqARIUakv3E2gMzREFukodbT6bPbtdVhZ6FuUhW80hiO4U-L6kCzzpeZuXoWXsULyTL6ECjUg1xetrSYOs/s1600/imagen594.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy89Gtgq4aH9xDGNcA3vXhPqqeA8wdiyHfIab3aJJ4xqe6dVI_VXsLtue-AXqARIUakv3E2gMzREFukodbT6bPbtdVhZ6FuUhW80hiO4U-L6kCzzpeZuXoWXsULyTL6ECjUg1xetrSYOs/s320/imagen594.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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In a near future, however, I will try to repeat this experiment with a much smaller camera format like 35 mm or less, using a very small focal for the pinhole. So, instead of a f number of 270, I can use about 100. For instances, using a 0.2 mm hole, I calculate a 24 mm focal length, giving a f number of 120. This f number allows speeds of 1/50 for 3200 ISO and pushing to 6400 or more, even 1/100 in a sunny day.<br />
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We will see!!!<div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-48194303153021745082016-02-23T04:21:00.005-08:002016-02-23T04:21:49.865-08:00Tiny first result with hair dye and modern C-41 film<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWHD1T0TQ30AD7NeUJEM7g0UazWGuiBgw8j7GZzJtDTb5LyThT6JLpL54lfTD48kw7suyUAL7eCcaGlnLlWsqq6vKEoEF1TdF62nKcYaPe5O3VzdzeAfZmicJN3QRiNw-H6hAq7uAo6Q/s1600/imagen040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWHD1T0TQ30AD7NeUJEM7g0UazWGuiBgw8j7GZzJtDTb5LyThT6JLpL54lfTD48kw7suyUAL7eCcaGlnLlWsqq6vKEoEF1TdF62nKcYaPe5O3VzdzeAfZmicJN3QRiNw-H6hAq7uAo6Q/s320/imagen040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The negative of the picture above was made on a Fujicolor 200 film and developed for 1 hour with the same developer that gave in just 15 minutes a much dense image using Fuji Eterna 250D, a movie film long expired. I already posted that image, but here is it again:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0DyFK_Xu8K9CDcy2dwHzjOrGRL-opDtdT2xAIQny4aCnt4uOZPCauxqziIheuP0No99AY1wQL4Z8HgyvJnfVVyECWRNA2RI-3TvHmIxOZuIHIBvNvAiLXqzqeIuAsJrDgE_DualZr5Mk/s1600/imagen024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0DyFK_Xu8K9CDcy2dwHzjOrGRL-opDtdT2xAIQny4aCnt4uOZPCauxqziIheuP0No99AY1wQL4Z8HgyvJnfVVyECWRNA2RI-3TvHmIxOZuIHIBvNvAiLXqzqeIuAsJrDgE_DualZr5Mk/s320/imagen024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I think that modern films just need a higher pH, so I will be trying that as next.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-88964761408169742092016-02-14T22:06:00.003-08:002016-02-16T20:00:53.915-08:00Hair dye and C-41 againIn the first post about this matter, I also said:<br />
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<em>The film I used was a movie film, Fujicolor Eterna 250D, and I first soaked for 30 minutes in just Soda to remove the remjet and then washed and developed. I then fixed to see the silver image but the film was already transparent like bleached. But I used then a Blix bath to be sure that only dyes are on film.</em><br />
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A friend suggested that maybe the first bath of just soda was helping too. I may agree now, after having tried to develop a normal modern C-41 film without the first soda bath. It didn't produce decent images and no color at all. On the other hand it seems that the resulting dyes are easely damaged by handling, this is also true for Fujicolor Eterna 250, which is much more stable than the modern emulsion I used. This one could be pealed by passing a finger on it, the other only gets marks.<br />
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Yesterday, after the disaster with normal C-41 film, I repeated the test with Fuji Eterna just to see whether the developer was to blame; I used the same batch I prepared on Thursday. Well, maybe a little different, less quality, but still working.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGk-ilvDKr-c-eonTrJ65frQsXc58eWO0KRE3NYWCJZcYfCnV3ZpSdFwgo6gg5-ZqUJ_AGvJdtL1ssOllRl1nnivXGpBiKXh4Z44i7r9GCM8b-GByiN1h6U_HR3xRMRJFBQ-LAvuJNzW0/s1600/imagen021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGk-ilvDKr-c-eonTrJ65frQsXc58eWO0KRE3NYWCJZcYfCnV3ZpSdFwgo6gg5-ZqUJ_AGvJdtL1ssOllRl1nnivXGpBiKXh4Z44i7r9GCM8b-GByiN1h6U_HR3xRMRJFBQ-LAvuJNzW0/s320/imagen021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLeNRe7w2YN_bf6yM3wVJ6_hm8JUQXpMavZcAglE-lDwPDnb2RGPXaoR6ABJHxIcMLLgsJuCMMoQYM-OJhKdTr66SwYpqy9BpTRc3DJ4Dg-pcSVJE4iLblvHlvGzoUG9ugXUPfOO9ak4/s1600/imagen023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLeNRe7w2YN_bf6yM3wVJ6_hm8JUQXpMavZcAglE-lDwPDnb2RGPXaoR6ABJHxIcMLLgsJuCMMoQYM-OJhKdTr66SwYpqy9BpTRc3DJ4Dg-pcSVJE4iLblvHlvGzoUG9ugXUPfOO9ak4/s320/imagen023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXDdAUbHN-FvoFjbzAU6KB9t_DY4C6U25ZjEtZhC-h3gRl9Jhqfb3z2PcOTfSkKGrepQLK9lQH__BvS-Mcy7TRa7zJvWQ0s-o9gH8TR6ySLYGuLp7-eiTHblEPODLvKIRURAQQTBvRG7Y/s1600/imagen024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXDdAUbHN-FvoFjbzAU6KB9t_DY4C6U25ZjEtZhC-h3gRl9Jhqfb3z2PcOTfSkKGrepQLK9lQH__BvS-Mcy7TRa7zJvWQ0s-o9gH8TR6ySLYGuLp7-eiTHblEPODLvKIRURAQQTBvRG7Y/s320/imagen024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And below is one of the pictures I made with a modern C-41 film, whose brand I can't say because it was in a Fuji cartridge but loaded from another. I often divide a 36 exp. film in 4 parts for tests. It was probably a Fuji or a Kodak.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMlJtiYydKa3bDWOv1fT3jO5cqaRoiLdAZY5Y7OgLsCoijokjV0M2oSvTDoT8Jx_Mw5MHGK1ULcpVTXyneK9t-mDvR7PwyceSDqlKl3zZU7j8pLjuolMH7PpBZ9ME3CNsgnBRgRs6WOo/s1600/imagen012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMlJtiYydKa3bDWOv1fT3jO5cqaRoiLdAZY5Y7OgLsCoijokjV0M2oSvTDoT8Jx_Mw5MHGK1ULcpVTXyneK9t-mDvR7PwyceSDqlKl3zZU7j8pLjuolMH7PpBZ9ME3CNsgnBRgRs6WOo/s320/imagen012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So, the work must go on! The good results so far were just a consequence of a lucky junction between Fujicolor Eterna 250D and the developer.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-92163200241597121522016-02-13T00:13:00.001-08:002016-02-13T00:13:26.755-08:00Colors developed with Hair dyeOn the right side a palette of colors, the so called MacBeth chart, picked up at internet. On the left side a photo of the same chart developed with hair dye developer, version 3, HD3 baptized. This version uses:<br />
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50ml hair dye with PPD<br />
5g Sodium Hydroxide<br />
10g Sodium Bicarbonate<br />
5g soluble coffee<br />
2g Potassium Metabisulfite<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKA6-GNy9AcF2BS63IRfSI7AvFUyaysBlGZxbKU-fGmFLcglQM4OLO20FKHOboBqmw5UWhrfOrDWHvxuoxTl7yUJ2GV0ywNb1SEX8nBLjFa-PHq8Gc5R8rzjWR-vVh2e75uCqHGkAAfs/s1600/HD-color.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKA6-GNy9AcF2BS63IRfSI7AvFUyaysBlGZxbKU-fGmFLcglQM4OLO20FKHOboBqmw5UWhrfOrDWHvxuoxTl7yUJ2GV0ywNb1SEX8nBLjFa-PHq8Gc5R8rzjWR-vVh2e75uCqHGkAAfs/s320/HD-color.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-796678558009612801.post-41933617803214211462016-02-09T07:06:00.003-08:002016-02-11T23:45:29.686-08:00Color from scratch?To make a B&W developer from scratch is today very easy. You may use coffee, tea, potatos, wine and so on, all of them can develop silver. But color is very difficult because you need a substance that developing silver produces the right stuff that combined with the dye couplers on the film will generate the dyes. For C-41, the right stuff is CD4 (a complex derivative of PPD, paraphenylenediamine). Ok, other derivatives like CD1, CD2, CD3, will also develope and also PPD alone does it like <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.pt/2015/11/c-41-without-cd4.html" target="_blank">a friend of this blog did some time ago</a> and shared with us. He offered me to send some PPD but I didn't take the chance because it is also a special stuff and my goal is to use a common stuff like coffee is used for B&W.<br />
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Unfortunately there aren't common substances with those potential color developers, one of the only ones are some hair dyes containing PPD. Some people have already tried it, but only a few had some success. I have been trying this for a long time but I couldn't realy get an acceptable result, until today. I also tried para-aminophenol, aka paracetamol, reported also as a weak color developer with <span class="hps">tenuous</span> results.<br />
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/chrono/39453128"><img alt="Still a dream" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/28/39453128.751f5ac7.500.jpg?r2" height="317" title="Still a dream" width="500" /></a></div>
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Today, because the wether is bad for walking, I decided to try again with hair dye, following partly the experience of <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/neelin/4364726260" target="_blank">Robert</a> (neelin) . I loaded a piece of film in a camera and from my balcony I made some 6 shots to several directions.<br />
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Then I prepared a «soup» containing hair dye and developed the piece of film for 1 hour at more or less 37ºC (100ºF) in my kitchen sink. OK, not only a time, it was the third attempt. I first used 15 min. at room temperature, then 30 minutes at room temperature and finally full one hour at 37ºC.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwM78WRQCfaGs6LcLZlLHlsZn5feLjcXSg2MbOuAn6xrK7_s7sQXUBo9kU1CZ956-Hnb0epFRcJ0qi51d-nvF2H82x6SKmN5IBblrRvUypjCJqzPm5JzDxPyqHbvG9xd2MziZlnw7ExOc/s1600/imagen600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwM78WRQCfaGs6LcLZlLHlsZn5feLjcXSg2MbOuAn6xrK7_s7sQXUBo9kU1CZ956-Hnb0epFRcJ0qi51d-nvF2H82x6SKmN5IBblrRvUypjCJqzPm5JzDxPyqHbvG9xd2MziZlnw7ExOc/s400/imagen600.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And my recipe was this one:<br />
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50 ml hair dye containing PPD<br />
0,05 g phenidone<br />
1 g sodium sulfite<br />
5 g sodium hydroxide<br />
10 g sodium bicarbonate<br />
5 g potassium bromide<br />
Water to make 500ml<br />
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The film looked like a B&W one but at scanning I saturated the colors and also with software afterwoods.<br />
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The film I used was a movie film, Fujicolor Eterna 250D, and I first soaked for 30 minutes in just Soda to remove the remjet and then washed and developed. I then fixed to see the silver image but the film was already transparent like bleached. But I used then a Blix bath to be sure that only dyes are on film.<br />
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Note: The only special stuff I used was Phenidone like suggested <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/neelin/4364726260" target="_blank">here</a>, and I still don't know if it goes without it. I will try it later because it is important that the developer is realy made from scratch.<br />
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10-2-2016<br />
Update: I did another modification, without phenidone and without Potassium Bromide. Yes, it works too, I will be publishing the results very soon. So, the recipe is now as follows:<br />
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50ml hair dye containing PPD<br />
5g Sodium Hydroxide<br />
10g Sodium Bicarbonate<br />
2g Potassium Metabisulfite<br />
Water to make 500ml<br />
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<u><strong>Preparation:</strong></u><br />
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I first dissolved the hair dye in some 100 ml water and Sodium Hydroxide also in some 100 ml warm water. I mixed both and stir a lot and let it react for 3 hours. I did this because hair dye is oily and reacting with Sodium Hydroxide will change a part of it to soap. During this three hours I stired sometimes too. But maybe the PPD also reacts with Sodium Hydroxide, I don't know. Then, after three hours I added Sodium Bicarbonate that will also react with Sodium Hydroxide giving Sodium Carbonate. This will lower pH a lot. Finally I added water to make 500 ml and Metabisulfite as preservative.<br />
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It works much faster, I only needed 20 minutes to develop. I think this is because it has no Potassium Bromide which is a restrainer. But I couldn't see differences until now. Maybe with KBr you get sharper images but this is not a problem for who just want to use common substances and KBr is, somehow special. Maybe salt, Sodium Chloride may be used instead.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim4moB_42v90QYcK_E2YMwr19OrK91plbSArkmY5vNPOqI7OVbcwq39_uNpZO9fNIozRd2FJC561N9wTS6Gi0D5wleRtfRk_T9G6o10MKuMNI1hqU8MASfmETVcrCUGrBMZA-L_6c-aBg/s1600/imagen904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim4moB_42v90QYcK_E2YMwr19OrK91plbSArkmY5vNPOqI7OVbcwq39_uNpZO9fNIozRd2FJC561N9wTS6Gi0D5wleRtfRk_T9G6o10MKuMNI1hqU8MASfmETVcrCUGrBMZA-L_6c-aBg/s400/imagen904.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used a squeezer but it produced horizontal lines.</td></tr>
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economic reasons only, it is normally done at 100 or 102ºF (37.8 or 38.8ºC), taking about 3 minutes and 30 or 15 seconds respectively.<br />
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Is the temperature really necessary? Some colour developer brands suggest also other possible temperatures, the so called slower procedure at 86ºF (30ºC) and the express procedure at 113ºF (45ºC). This is a sign that it is not absolutely necessary to respect a given temperature. It is obvious that a very high temperature will spoil the film and a very low temperature is maybe time consuming and therefore not suitable for film labs, where time is money. That is maybe the reason why a standard temperature/time combination was chosen at about 100ºF/3'30''. 100ºF is safe for the film and it turns possible a very short time to make the process cheaper.<br />
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Film labs use automatic film processors and it is very easy to respect exact temperature and development time. For manual use in a development tank, that is quite impossible, imho. Filling and emptying the tank take time and the temperature will drop when you take the tank out of the warm water bath to agitate each 30 seconds. Using warmer water above 40ºC to compensate may burn your hands and the time you save to develop in just 3 and half minutes is spoiled with warm bath preparation and so on.<br />
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When I decided to write about this subject, I first heard the opinion of a friend and colleague of these labors, Reinhold G., the author of the nice blog <a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.de/">Caffenol</a>. In a earlier discussion with him, we both agreed that for manual processing, one should use room temperature and not external heated tanks. Besides, some time ago he published a graphic he prepared with temperature vs. time for C-41 development, according to manufacturer's data, and extrapolated to as low as 20ºC (68ºF). With his consent, here I reproduce the graphic:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeamoBH1eUOwBq9r6Vl3_StGK09GiLigiRQJD2Wi2L78oQkHWMZs7a2K_y-E00iJ0Xhl3lKkWOgQslPLW3fUKbJKdVuMm1QvSh3cnkrlTLIrGhaOsNoGnF-2DN4qeFI5ISecsDeztfHIQ/s1600/19921031773_54e7d4c5f4_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeamoBH1eUOwBq9r6Vl3_StGK09GiLigiRQJD2Wi2L78oQkHWMZs7a2K_y-E00iJ0Xhl3lKkWOgQslPLW3fUKbJKdVuMm1QvSh3cnkrlTLIrGhaOsNoGnF-2DN4qeFI5ISecsDeztfHIQ/s400/19921031773_54e7d4c5f4_c.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click to enlarge</td></tr>
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From this graphic we can see that for 20ºC we should develop for 20 minutes. And this time is not so critical, 1 minute less or more will not change the result, so filling and emptying will not introduce noise in the result.<br />
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Are there other reasons not to use room temperature and go the hard and exact procedure defended by some C-41 fundamentalists? It is said that the 100ºF procedure is responsible for exact colours but neither my experience or <a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.de/">Reinhold's</a> support this. Films I developed at room temperature present all three layers (blue, green and red) well developed and a good indicator for a succeeded development is mainly the red layer, the deepest one, where the developer must penetrate more. If you have vivid reds, that is a good sign. Colour shifts, according to my several failures, are mainly a pH problem, varying from magenta shift for low pH to hell yellow/green for high pH. To get good colours, you only need to adjust pH, instead of rising the temperature. Besides the pH of liquids decrease with temperature. <br />
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I recommend strongly this <a href="http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8224.msg109499#msg109499">post of Reinhold at the site Filmwasters.com</a>. As he says, developing C-41 is somehow easier because all C-41 films will be developed with the same developer (all brands are equivalent) and in the same time, be sure to have the correct pH which is said to be 10 but feel free to adjust for better colour reproduction. When processing B&W you have dozens of developers and each combination has a certain time and depends on temperature: see <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php">Massive Development Chart at digitaltruth photo</a>. <br />
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Another final recommendation I can make is to prolong the bleach bath more than the standard time because it is normal that at a lower temperature reactions go slower. You may use the same acid fixer for B&W and the same times used for B&W film. To check whether a film is well bleached and fixed, scan it using IR scanning. If it is not well bleached and fixed, some large square pictures like big pixels will show here and there.<br />
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To end this already long post, I would like to thank to <a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.de/">Reinhold G.</a> for his support and opinions, which we share together.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Visit us in <a href="http://caffenolcolor.blogspot.com">Caffenolcolor</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3